Problem Identifier / How to Get Rid of Spider Mites on Plants

Contents hide
1 What do Spider Mites Look Like?
2 What Does Spider Mite Damage Look Like?
3 How to Get Rid of Spider Mites on Plants Naturally
4 How to Prevent Spider Mites on Plants Naturally
5 Life Cycle of the Spider Mite
6 Spider Mite Management in Greenhouses Using Biocontrol

In this article, we’ll cover how to get rid of spider mites on plants. The best defense against spider mites on plants is always preventative measures which we’ll discuss more below.

Despite their tiny size, spider mites can do a lot of damage. They are one of the most common outdoor pests, with over 1,200 different species. Spider mites feed on an extremely large variety of plants. It is nearly impossible to see spider mites with the human eye. This is the reason they are generally not identified until after damage to the plants has been done.

Spider mites are a part of the Tetranychidae family, and frequently seen throughout North America attacking both outdoor and indoor plants. You will often find spider mites on weed plants. Significant damage is common in greenhouses. Spider mites are not an insect, but a type of arachnid. The spider mite is related to spiders, scorpions and ticks. The arachnids live in colonies, most often found on the underside of leaves.

get rid of spider mites on plants
Spider mite infestation.

Feeding occurs by piercing the tissue of the leaves and sucking out the fluids in the plant. Spider mites are commonly found when the conditions are dry, or insecticides have been used because chemicals kill many of their natural enemies. Most of the species is made up of plant-feeding mites. Due to the fertility of the species, once you see spider mites on plants, there is a good chance there is already an infestation.

Red spider mites attack a wide range of plants in the garden, but camellias and azaleas are attacked more often. There are two different types of red spider mites: The Southern red spider mite and the European red spider mite with the Southern red being more common. The European species is generally found only on apple trees. Learning how to identify and get rid of spider mites is critical because every species can cause severe damage or killing the plant.

What do Spider Mites Look Like?

Spider mites are so tiny, the only way to accurately identify them is with a 10x magnifying glass. The best way to find spider mites on weed or other plants is by examining the leaves for damage. The shape of the body is oval, with slight bristling. The juveniles are pale green, with darker green spots developing with maturity.

The green dots are the contents of the guts of the spider mites, and how the two-spotted mite was named. The red spider mite is completely red, where many of the other species are partially red. Red spider mites are approximately 1/50th of an inch in length.

If the underside of the leaves looks dusty, there is a good chance these pests are the culprits. Look at the leaves closely, the dust will move because it is mites. Another telltale sign of spider mites is webbing on the plant’s branches or the underside of the leaves.

What Does Spider Mite Damage Look Like?

Spider Mites on plants cause the following damage:

  • Webbing
  • Whitish-yellow or tan spots on the needles and leaves
  • Yellowish discoloration with a bronzed cast
  • Distortion of the leaves and flowers
  • Tiny red or white spots moving on the leaves
  • Random white specks on the leaves
  • Leaves appear sunburned

Spider mites have piercing mouthparts they use to suck on the underside of the needles and leaves resulting in a yellowed discoloration. If there is webbing on the plants, there is an infestation. To learn how to get rid of spider mites, understanding the difference between an attack and drought stress is important.

White, tan or yellow spots appear on the leaves. Tiny moving red or white spots are the mites. Look for cottony white webbing on the underside of the leaves. A large infestation on bedding plants or vegetables often results in the death of the plants.

The damage initially seen are white specks on the top of the leaves. The specks are so small, they do not draw the eye. This often causes the damage to go unnoticed. With the right environment, the damage can quickly turn into an infestation. When spider mites feed, the entire contents of the plant cells are eliminated.

The life of the plant is drained, resulting in dryness and discoloration. The leaves will eventually fall, leaving the plant significantly weakened. If you do not take immediate action to combat and kill the spider mites, your plants will eventually die. The most common damage for vegetables including watermelons, melons and squash includes falling leaves resulting in sunburning and smaller yields.

Spider mites on plants including beans and sugar peas result in direct damage. Unless there is an infestation, the damage on ornamental plants is minimal. Spider mites also attack roses.

How to Get Rid of Spider Mites on Plants Naturally

When spider mites are found early, preventing an infestation is simple. All the methods below are good options for getting rid of spider mites on plants naturally.

  • Trifecta Crop Control to get rid of spider mites on plants
  • Diatomaceous earth (for outdoor application only)
  • Natural predators
  • Spray the plant with pressurized water (for sturdy, non-cannabis plants only)
  • Discard the plant

Essential oils are frequently used to prevent mites but if mites are already present, the oils attack the spider mites’ central nervous system, killing them. Once you have a spider mite infestation, you must be diligent in your application of Trifecta Crop Control! It can take several weeks for all the mites to die and to completely break their life cycle. Apply as instructed below or click here to view/download our full application guidelines.

Spider Mites on Cannabis Plants
Spider mite infestation cannabis. PHOTO CREDIT: Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org

The infestation protocol is 2oz of Crop Control Super Concentrate per gallon applied every 72hrs until the infestation is under control. From there, you can switch to once weekly at preventative dose of 1oz per gallon. Spider mites can be tricky, especially if they are well established. Their webbing acts like a canopy and protects them from the spray. We recommend vacuuming the webs off before spraying for best results.

Diatomaceous earth can be used to slow down an infestation. Dust the leaves with diatomaceous earth labeled food grade as opposed to pool grade because handling this type is safe. The mites dry out and die.

Natural predators are another good option. Make certain the predators you select are the right ones for the specific season. Parasitic mites can be purchased from a local nursery including ladybugs, six-spotted thrips, bogeyed bugs, Western flower thrips and minute pirate bugs.

For non-cannabis and sturdy plants, a faucet or hose can be used to spray the stems and leaves of the plant using pressurized water. Start by isolating the infected plant, then spray everything possible for effectiveness. This process will need to be repeated a few times.

Any leaves showing the signs of a heavy infestation need to be removed. Put the leaves into a plastic bag with a good seal, then dispose of the bag. If a houseplant or an entire plant becomes infested, throwing out the plant is the best course of action since this will prevent the infestation from spreading to other plants.

How to Prevent Spider Mites on Plants Naturally

Spider Mite Damage Cucumber Plant
Spider mite damage on a cucumber plant.

The best options to prevent spider mites on plants naturally include:

By applying Trifecta Crop Control as a preventative, you can ensure you never have to deal with a nasty spider mite infestation. Apply as follows or click here to view and/or download our Application Guidelines.

  • .5oz per gallon applied once per week during veg
  • 1oz per gallon applied once per week during flower up to 2 weeks before harvest for cannabis plants. Crop Control can be applied up to the day of harvest for fruits and vegetables. Please wash your produce before consuming to remove any residual product.

Always be sure to quarantine new plants. Spider mites are so small and could go unnoticed even with a quick inspection. If introducing new plants, be sure to keep them isolated for at least 2 weeks.

Beneficial bugs, such as the minute pirate bug, ladybug, assassin bug, and green lacewing, will help ensure spider mites don’t become an issue during flower. Be sure to make sure your growing conditions match with the spider mite predator’s optimal conditions.

Make certain the plants have all the necessary nutrients and are well watered to reduce any stress on the plant. If the plants are indoors or in a greenhouse, spider mites can be discouraged by regulating both the relative humidity and the temperature. Spider mites love the heat, so decreasing the temperature and adjusting the RH between 55% and 65% can help keep your plants free from these pests.

Life Cycle of the Spider Mite

Spider Mite Eggs Hatching
Spider mites hatching.

The lifecycle of the spider mite changes according to the environment. For the ideal conditions, the humidity must be lower than 50 percent, with temperatures at 80 degrees Fahrenheit or above. In this environment, only five to seven days are necessary for the egg to mature into an adult. This process usually takes place from June until September.

When the process takes place during the spring or fall, the life cycle increases to about 19 days. The population of spider mites can be decreased when the humidity and temperature in the growing area are regulated. This is the best option if spider mites are identified on plants in a greenhouse. When food sources are scarce due to shortened sunlight hours, the females go into a stage called diapause.

During this stage, the color of the spider mite changes from green to orange. Spider mites will not lay eggs or eat during this period.

Spider Mite Management in Greenhouses Using Biocontrol

The first greenhouse pests controlled with an application of predators were spider mites. Biocontrol suppliers offer numerous predators feeding on different groups of mites. Biocontrols are usually ineffective for eriophyid or cyclamen mites. Your best solution for the management of these pests is the removal and destruction of infected plants when spider mites are detected.

Phytoseiulus persimilis is an important predator for controlling spider mite populations on numerous crops. These mites are active throughout the year, feeding on spider mite adults, nymphs, larvae and eggs. You can increase the rate of reproduction with a minimum temperature of 82 degrees Fahrenheit. You should flag all active colonies of spider mites when scouting to introduce predators on delivery.

Look for dead spider mites appearing on your plants as small black dots to determine effectiveness. Also, look for adult predator mites and their oval-shaped eggs. Phytoseiulus is an orangish-red, with a lot more mobility than spider mites. Phytoseiulus should be introduced every week until you achieve control or for a total of three weeks.

If the infestation is light, one predator is necessary for each square foot in addition to 10 more for every infested leaf. If your infestation is heavy, release between 10 and 100 predators for each plant. Tips for Phytoseiulus use:

  • Begin early to achieve control over populations of spider mites
  • Without spider mites for prey, Phytoseiulus will starve or disperse
  • If you do not achieve control, the predatory rate must be increased
  • You should be able to decrease your spider mite colonies in two or three weeks
  • Predators should be poured over plant hangers or placed right on infested leaves
  • If your mite population decreases then increases, you must reintroduce new Phytoseiulus

Neoseiulus californicus is a predatory mite effective as a biocontrol option when greenhouse humidity is less than 60 percent. You can introduce this mite as a preventative measure when having difficulty finding populations of spider mites in your crops because prey is not required for survival. You need to release the predators early for controlling the populations of spider mites due to their fast reproduction with low humidity and high temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are early signs of spider mites?

An early sign of spider mites is seeing bronze- or yellow-colored spots on the plant leaves. You may find that the underside of your plant leaves is discolored or that the leaves have small holes in them. Another early sign of spider mites is finding webbing on the leaves and stems of your plants.

If you use a magnifying glass or a jeweler’s loupe to inspect your plants, you may also see spider mites or their eggs in the webbing or on the underside of the leaves.

Spider mites belong to the arachnid family, but don’t look like most spiders. They have an oval-shaped body, eight legs, and are no more than a millimeter long. Spider mites come in a variety of colors to help them blend in with your plants, including reddish orange, green, yellow, black, white, brown, and translucent; some have two spots.

Spider mites cannot live on humans because they need plant materials to sustain themselves. They use plants to spin their webs and lay their eggs, and they feed off the plants cells to survive. Spider mites can crawl or use clothing or other items as transportation to new plants, but they cannot live on humans.

If you find that you have spider mites during flowering, there are many ways to get rid of them. When you notice that your plant is sick or if you find evidence of spider mites, quarantine the plant immediately to minimize more plants being affected.

Any leaves showing the signs of a heavy infestation need to be removed. Put the leaves into a plastic bag with a good seal, then dispose of the bag. If a houseplant or an entire plant becomes infested, throwing out the plant is the best course of action since this will prevent the infestation from spreading to other plants.

Use a 2oz per gallon of water dilution of Trifecta Crop Control Super Concentrate every 72 hours until you get the infestation under control. For severe infestations, 3-4oz/gal every 24-48 hrs can be applied, up to 5 applications. Then switch to 2oz protocol. After the infestation is under control, switch to the preventative dose of 1oz per gallon once or twice a week. For cannabis plants, Trifecta can be used up to 2 weeks before harvest to avoid the oils in the product from affecting the flavor of the buds. If necessary, it can be used closer to harvest time so long as a bud wash is applied post harvest to remove any residue.

For non-cannabis plants, Crop Control can be applied until the day of harvest. Trifecta Crop Control is a stable nano emulsion, so when the post-harvest wash and rinse is completed, any residue will be washed away. For best results, vacuum the plant before spraying Trifecta Crop Control.

Dusting the leaves with food grade diatomaceous earth is another way to help slow down a spider mite infestation. Diatomaceous earth kills spider mites by drying them out. Natural predators are another way of combatting spider mites. Natural predators of spider mites are minute pirate bugs, lady bugs, six-spotted thrips, bogeyed bugs, and Western flower thrips. These natural predators can be purchased from local nurseries.

For non-cannabis and sturdy plants, a faucet or hose can be used to spray the stems and leaves of the plant using pressurized water. This process will need to be repeated a few times.

Eliminate as much plant stress as possible by making sure the plant has the nutrients and water it needs. Another great way to get rid of spider mites during flowering is to control the temperature and the relative humidity. Spider mites love warm, dry conditions. Lowering the temperature and keeping the relative humidity between 55% and 65% will help keep spider mites away.

There are many ways to get rid of spider mites naturally. When you notice that your plant is sick or if you find evidence of spider mites, quarantine the plant immediately to minimize more plants being affected.

Trifecta Crop Control is the only all-in-one natural pesticide, fungicide, and miticide with a synergistic blend of MAXIMUM STRENGTH essential oils created and meets the criteria for organic under USDA guidelines and most certifying organizations. For infestations, use 2oz of Trifecta Crop Control Super Concentrate per gallon every 72 hours until the infestation is under control.

After the infestation is under control, switch to the preventative dose of 1oz per gallon once or twice a week. For cannabis plants, Trifecta can be used up to 2 weeks before harvest to avoid the oils in the product from affecting the flavor of the buds. No rinsing is necessary, but if there is some concern about the oils affecting the taste, rinsing the plant after application can mitigate those concerns.

For vegetables and other non-cannabis plants, Crop Control can be applied until the day of harvest. Please wash vegetables before consuming. Dusting the leaves with food grade diatomaceous earth is another way to help slow down a spider mite infestation. Diatomaceous earth kills spider mites by drying them out.

Natural predators are another way of combatting spider mites. Natural predators of spider mites are minute pirate bugs, lady bugs, six-spotted thrips, bogeyed bugs, and Western flower thrips. These natural predators can be purchased from local nurseries. For non-cannabis and sturdy plants, a faucet or hose can be used to spray the stems and leaves of the plant using pressurized water. This process will need to be repeated a few times.

Eliminate as much plant stress as possible by making sure the plant has the nutrients and water it needs to thrive.

Another way to get rid of spider mites naturally is to control the temperature and the relative humidity. Spider mites love warm, dry conditions. Lowering the temperature and keeping the relative humidity between 55% and 65% will help keep spider mites away.

Please note: Any leaves showing the signs of a heavy infestation need to be removed. Put the leaves into a plastic bag with a good seal, then dispose of the bag. If a houseplant or an entire plant becomes infested, throwing out the plant is the best course of action since this will prevent the infestation from spreading to other plants.of spider mites are minute pirate bugs, lady bugs, six-spotted thrips, bogeyed bugs, and Western flower thrips. These natural predators can be purchased from local nurseries.

For non-cannabis and sturdy plants, a faucet or hose can be used to spray the stems and leaves of the plant using pressurized water. This process will need to be repeated a few times. Eliminate as much plant stress as possible by making sure the plant has the nutrients and water it needs to thrive.

Another way to get rid of spider mites naturally is to control the temperature and the relative humidity. Spider mites love warm, dry conditions. Lowering the temperature and keeping the relative humidity between 55% and 65% will help keep spider mites away.

Please note: Any leaves showing the signs of a heavy infestation need to be removed. Put the leaves into a plastic bag with a good seal, then dispose of the bag. If a houseplant or an entire plant becomes infested, throwing out the plant is the best course of action since this will prevent the infestation from spreading to other plants.

Spider mites are harmful to plants, not humans. They can cause major damage to both indoor and outdoor plants. If a spider mite bites a human, the side effects are minor like skin irritation, swelling and itching.

Soil mites are arthropods that are attracted to moist soil and feed on decaying organic matter. They are usually found in flower beds, piles of leaves, wooded areas, compost heaps, etc. Soil mites are tiny, less than a millimeter, have six legs, and may look like little brown or white spots that move around in the soil. Soil mites do not harm plants, they help breakdown organic matter to help the plants get needed nutrients from soil and actively aerate the soil; however, they also carry parasite eggs, like tapeworms, and disease-causing bacteria.

Spider mites are arachnids. While there are many different types of spider mites that survive in different climates, the majority like warm, dry conditions. They are no more than a millimeter long, have eight legs, and can be reddish orange, green, yellow, black, white, brown, and translucent; some have two spots. Spider mites feed on plant materials which can cause plant weakness, stunted growth, and death of the plant.

There are many ways that spider mites get on plants. One way is a live, infested plant that has been gifted to you or came from a store or garden center. Spider mites multiply quickly and can rapidly spread to other plants if they are near each other or by the wind. Always quarantine plants that you get from others or from stores or garden centers to prevent an infestation of other plants in your home or garden. If you put indoor plants outside during the summer months, quarantine them when you bring them back in as well.

Another way spider mites get on plants is humans and pets. Spider mites can temporarily hide in clothing, shoes, and in our animals’ fur before spreading to plants. Make sure to wash and dry clothing regularly to minimize your plants’ exposure to spider mites. Practice good pet hygiene, like regular bathing and brushing of your dog, to help prevent spider mite exposure.

Spider mites can get on plants that are not washed regularly. Dusty plants become a haven for spider mites, but regularly washing the plants can prevent them from becoming dusty, can get rid of spider mites already on the plant, and prevent them from spreading.

Spider mites love nitrogen-rich plants. Plants naturally produce nitrogen, but when a plant overproduces nitrogen, its sap becomes sweeter and attracts spider mites. To minimize your plant from overproducing nitrogen, make sure to feed it the nutrients it needs to be happy and healthy.

The bigger the plant is, the more area spider mites eat, breed, and destroy. Spider mites prefer broad, thin, soft-tissue plant leaves like cannabis, alocasia, dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreens, palms, ivy, marantas, adansonii, calatheas, tropical hibiscus, and primrose. Using Trifecta Crop Control as a preventative and/or regular monitoring will ensure you keep spider mites at bay.

If a spider mite bites a human, the side effects are minor like skin irritation, swelling and itching.

You’ll find conflicting opinions regarding using vinegar to kill spider mites. It’s acidic, which pests do not like, but at the same time, spider mites are tough bastards and can be hard to eradicate. Our recommendation is to use Crop Control which is a tried and tested death sentence for not only spider mites but most of the pests that want to harm your plants.

An easy way to check for spider mites is to hold a white sheet of paper under the leaves and shake the stem or leaves a few times to make the spider mites fall onto the white paper. You can also look for spider mite damage on your plants, such as bronze- or yellow-colored spots on the leaves, discoloration on the underside of the leaves, holes on the leaves, and webbing on the leaves and stems of the plants. Using a jewelers magnifying glass can really help with being able to see them.

There are many ways to keep spider mites away. A very good rule of thumb is to always quarantine plants that are brought in to ensure you do not inadvertently expose your plants to one that may have a spider mite infestation.

Applying Trifecta Crop Control as a preventative to keep spider mites away is a guarantee your plants will never end up with a spider mite infestation. The preventative dose of Trifecta is 1oz per gallon can be applied once per week. For cannabis plants, Trifecta can be used up to 2 weeks before harvest to avoid the oils in the product from affecting the flavor of the buds. For other produce, Crop Control can be applied until the day of harvest. Please wash vegetables before consuming. Houseplants can be sprayed once a week.

Beneficial bugs, such as the minute pirate bug, ladybug, assassin bug, and green lacewing, will help ensure spider mites don’t become an issue. Growing conditions may need to be adjusted to ensure optimal conditions for the spider mites’ predators.

Eliminate as much plant stress as possible by making sure the plant has the nutrients and water it needs.

Controlling the temperature and relative humidity is another way to get keep spider mites away. Spider mites love warm, dry conditions. Lowering the temperature and keeping the relative humidity between 55% and 65% will help keep spider mites away.

No. Spider mites are not known to jump. Spider mites can crawl onto neighboring plants that touch each other, drop from a higher plant to a lower one, be transported on shoes and clothing, or by being blown by the wind.

If a red spider mite bites a human, the side effects are minor like skin irritation, swelling and itching.

Spider mites are attracted to areas that have low humidity and are warm and dry. They are also attracted to plants with broad, thin, soft tissue leaves like cannabis, alocasia, dieffenbachia, angel’s trumpet, Chinese evergreens, palms, ivy, marantas, adansonii, calatheas, tropical hibiscus, primrose, etc.

Spider mites can travel by crawling onto neighboring plants that touch each other, drop from a higher plant to a lower one, be transported on shoes and clothing, or by being blown by the wind.

Red spider mites belong to the arachnid family. They are all red, tiny (about 0.5mm), and have eight legs. Red spider mites are found in areas that have low humidity and are dry and warm. There are two types of red spider mites: the European red spider mite that mostly attacks apple trees and the Southern red spider mite that attacks a variety of plants, which is the most common.

There are many ways to get rid of spider mites during late flowering. When you notice that your plant is sick or if you find evidence of spider mites, quarantine the plant immediately to minimize more plants being affected. Any leaves showing signs of a heavy infestation need to be removed. Put the leaves into a plastic bag with a good seal, then dispose of the bag. If a houseplant or an entire plant becomes infested, throwing out the plant is the best course of action since this will prevent the infestation from spreading to other plants.

Using Trifecta Crop Control Super Concentrate is a solution to get rid of spider mites during late flowering. Depending on your level of infestation, different dilution ratios should be used. For extreme infestations, apply 3-4oz per gal every 24-48 hrs up to 5 applications. Then switch to mild protocol, which is 2oz per gallon every 72 hours until you get the infestation under control. After the infestation is under control, switch to the preventative dose of 1oz per gallon once or twice a week.

For cannabis plants, Trifecta can be used up to 2 weeks before harvest to avoid the oils in the product from affecting the flavor of the buds. In case of emergencies, it can be applied closer to harvest as long as a bud wash is applied to remove any residue from the plants.

For non-cannabis plants, Crop Control can be applied until the day of harvest. Trifecta Crop Control is a stable nano emulsion, so when the post-harvest wash and rinse is completed, any residue will be washed away.

Dusting the leaves with food grade diatomaceous earth is another way to help slow down a spider mite infestation. Diatomaceous earth kills spider mites by drying them out.

Natural predators are another way of combatting spider mites. Natural predators of spider mites are minute pirate bugs, lady bugs, six-spotted thrips, bogeyed bugs, and Western flower thrips. These natural predators can be purchased from local nurseries.

Another great way to get rid of spider mites during flowering is to control the temperature and the relative humidity. Spider mites love warm, dry conditions. Lowering the temperature and keeping the relative humidity between 55% and 65% will help keep spider mites away.

Trifecta Crop Control uses carefully selected, synergistic blend of essential oils that work to help keep spider mites, pests, mold and mildew off your plants. Our formula includes thyme, peppermint, garlic, rosemary and clove oils. Most oil-based products require the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent to reduce the surface tension, which allows for more even coverage on the plant. Unfortunately, this requires constant and rigorous shaking which still does not result in a full even coverage. Trifecta Crop Control’s unique high-shear homogenization process is so effective, it creates TOTAL emulsion of the oils in water, which means you do not need to mix with additional products and will achieve full coverage every application, with virtually no residue after 72 hours.

You can always make your own blend of oils but will not achieve the same effects as a nanoemulsion blend like Crop Control.

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